Supported Mount Baker Summit
- Kristin Jones
- Aug 5, 2020
- 6 min read
After completing my solo summit of Mount Adams, I headed to Seattle as the final destination in my initials plans, but the itch to do something more was strong. I initially looked up Mount Hood as it's a prominent mountain in the background of the climbs I've been doing, but read that the season typically wraps up in July. As I searched more, I ran across the fact that there are 5 volcanoes in Washington State. Mount Rainier, Mount St Helens, Mount Adams, Mount Baker and Glacier Peak. Having already summited the first three, I got excited to have the opportunity to climb all 5 in my home state. I started doing more research and read that both Baker and Glacier can be more technical climbs similar to Mt Rainier due to crevasse openings, so I decided if I'm going to do this, I'm going to reach out to a guide.
I've been following the Pacific Northwest Mountaineers group on Facebook - which I have to say is a bit intimidating - and decided that in order to make this happen I'd have to put myself out there and ask for recommendations. Fortunately, it was well received and many folks posted their favorites and I received direct messages from a couple guides as well. The owner of Kaf Adventures, Mick Pearson, was one of the first to reach out to me and I decided to run with it and I think it was just meant to be.
After an initial call on Tuesday, July 21st, we discussed that the Mount Baker Coleman-Deming route would make the most sense as it could be done in 2 days or a single car-to-car push (Glacier Peak has a much longer approach). Additionally, based on my nomadic travel schedule, Mick was flexible to try and make this attempt happen the coming weekend, which fortunately was looking to have good weather. With additional conversations regarding my endurance and other car-to-car summits, we settled on a single push starting late Saturday night on July 25th and returning on Sunday, that could take up to 16 hours. I gulped a little, as I hadn't done over a 12-13 hour day this year, but I was ready for the challenge and knowing that I have done a 100 miler and stayed on my feet for almost 30 hours, I knew I had the mental toughness to keep pushing.
After a few more check-ins and 5 days after reaching out for a guide, I was waiting for Mick in a parking lot outside Glacier, WA. First order of business was trying on the boots Mick brought and sizing the crampons for them. We quickly ran into our first challenge with the largest boots being the best fit for me but they had a defect in the toe that I could feel and potentially could destroy my big toe. After discussing the options and the fact that I've done Mt St Helens and Mt Adams in my trail runners and Grivel micro-spikes, I made the call that I'd like to pack in the boots and crampons and switch them out when necessary. Mountaineering isn't supposed to be comfortable and I have dealt with extreme blisters and losing toe nails before. It was a risk that I could accept for safety over comfort. With gear sorted, it was time to head to the trailhead, have dinner and get some rest in my truck.
Midnight came way to soon, but with a lovely cup of coffee, compliments of Mick, and the usual pre-summit jitters, I was wide awake and we were quickly on our way up at a solid pace. After two hours and only stopping to remove layers, we reached the Kaf Adventures base camp and snow line. As I've been going solo on these other mountains, I haven't been stopping long enough to let myself get cold, but I was sweaty and the light breeze was cooling me down quickly, but Mick gave me a good reminder of the basics to sit, add layers, get fueled and hydrate. After refilling water and getting our ropes squared away we headed out into the snow and I warmed back up again straight away.
As we headed towards the Coleman Glacier the snow was firm and I was comfortable in my trail runners and micro-spikes and we had a long rope setup with Mick leading. When we got to where the crevasses were opening up on the glacier, Mick showed me how to add butterfly knots to the rope as an extra precaution that could potentially catch on an edge if one of us were to fall. Most of the crevasses were only just opening up and we were able safely walk around them, but there is one crevasse that was becoming a sketchy snow bridge. As it was still before sunrise, Mick crossed and then coached me over safely without additional precautions.
From the snow bridge, the climb was getting steeper and we eventually switched to a short rope. We took a few short breaks for snacks, snapped pics of the sunrise and Mick kept tabs on my comfort in my spikes and the pace. I was feeling strong and only felt the need to slow down a little to ensure I had legs to come back down. We unroped at what I think is called the "football field" which is the final, easy push to the summit with lots of space to get amazing views in any direction. And after 6 hours, I stood atop Mount Baker's summit and was amazed at the North Cascades and all of the peaks stretching into Canada that I hadn't seen before. It was breathtaking and I took time to soak it up and try to get some cool panorama shots as well - though it will never do it justice the same as being there.
As we started our descent back to the car, I had kept note of areas on the way up that I felt I may need to switch out my micro-spikes for boots and crampons but as we continued back down the route, I felt quite comfortable and never came across a spot where I felt I could not control myself. At this point, I was leading with Mick following, with the experience to control a situation from the back if needed. The only sketchy part we encountered was, again, the snow bridge across the largest crevasse. Prior to crossing we switched our rope situation to do a figure 8 on a bight and hooked that into one of the carabineers I brought, and then setting up a picket in order to rappel me across the snow bridge in case it gave out. Through close communication and taking it step-by-step, I crossed safely and then followed Mick's instructions in order to be prepared to dig in with my weight, ice axe and spikes as he crossed the snow bridge behind. All went smoothly and we stayed heads down until getting past the glacier and ice/rockfall risks where we could relax, remove the rope and I could take my first pee break of the day :) We then took advantage of the softer snow to glissade down to the Kaf Adventures base camp and take some extra time to relax, get warm and fuel up for the final push.
Once we were snow-free I was super excited to have Mick pick up the pace and start jogging down the trail - not everyone is comfortable with downhill trail running - but it is my jam. After 5 hours and about 11 hours car-to-car we were back at the trailhead and celebrating such a great day. My ego was definitely boosted by Mick mentioning that it is rare to run across others who are willing to take on Baker as a car-to-car push and to do it in the time we did. I know I'm wired differently than most people - but it's nice to get some appreciation for that once in awhile. And like I said before, I feel like connecting with Mick on this mountain was just meant to be. I didn't know going into this that it wasn't typical, I never assume I'm quick at anything, and knowing that it's hard for me to depend on anyone for anything - it was rewarding to be paired up with a partner who was pushing me.
I learned a lot and I do know now that there will be many more summit attempts in my future. I know they won't all go so smoothly and with such great weather - but I do know I'm up to the task. I want to keep learning the skills to be more self-sufficient on the mountain, and after looking out at the North Cascades, the opportunities are endless. I don't have a next mountain, though Glacier Peak will happen eventually, but I have many adventures to come this summer that will keep me outdoors and moving forward in some way. For now - I'll keep doing it with fear (like crossing that snow bridge) and being unstoppable.
Note: Photo credit to Mick Pearson in the Alt Tags for photos throughout this post.
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