Conquering the Alpine Lakes High Route: Backpacking 28 Miles of Heat, Haze, and High-Altitude Beauty
- Kristin Jones
- Oct 8
- 3 min read
Updated: Oct 15
The Plan: A Counterclockwise Challenge
This weekend’s backpacking adventure took me deep into Washington’s Alpine Lakes Wilderness on a challenging 28-mile counterclockwise loop backpacking the Alpine Lakes High Route from the West Fork Foss Trailhead through Necklace Valley.
My friend Aavron, visiting from Colorado, joined me for the journey — complete with route finding, tough decisions, and a few fishing attempts along the way.
We started at the Necklace Valley trailhead, dropping off the truck before walking a two-and-a-half-mile stretch of forest road to the West Fork Foss Trailhead. That way, we’d save our tired legs from dealing with the road at the end of the trip.
The plan: follow the Alpine Lakes High Route counterclockwise, passing under Iron Cap Mountain and circling back to Necklace Valley. Smoke from nearby wildfires hung in the air, adding an eerie haze to the morning light.
Day 1: Heat, Humidity, and the Long Climb
The first day was hot, humid, and relentless. By mile six, we were drenched in sweat — my hips and hamstrings on fire as we climbed toward Copper Lake.
We rested there beside the crystal-clear water, refilled bottles, and cooled off before pushing toward Heart Lake.
Though we had planned to reach Big Heart Lake, exhaustion made the call for us. We set up camp at Little Heart Lake, surrounded by granite cliffs and shimmering reflections.
Sometimes, the best decision is to stop early — not push through.
Camp Life and Gear Wins
Setting up camp felt like paradise. Aavron's REI Half Dome tent was the perfect home base, and I finally got to test my Enlightened Equipment quilt straps and matching pillow — total comfort upgrade.
That evening, my Garmin weather report warned of incoming thunderstorms and dropping temps. As we drifted off, the sky glowed faintly orange through the haze — a surreal end to a long day.
Day 2: Blueberries, Ash, and Big Heart Decisions
Morning arrived calm and cool, the lake surface perfectly still. After some quick foot care (thank you, Squirrel’s Nut Butter), we hit the trail toward Big Heart Lake.
We stopped to snack on wild blueberries — warm, sweet, and growing in thick clusters along the trail. But as we climbed, ash began to fall. The wildfire smoke had thickened, obscuring the ridges.
Visibility dropped. The air turned metallic.
Instead of pushing higher, we chose to camp at Big Heart Lake and fish — a safer, slower choice that paid off in peace and reflection.
A Change in Weather, a Change in Plans
By midday, the wind shifted and the smoke cleared. The mountains reappeared like ghosts coming into focus.
We packed up and climbed toward Chetwoot Lake, scrambling over boulders to reach Iron Cap Lake, where glacial water shimmered pale blue beneath granite peaks.
The day ended with a final push to Tank Lakes — over 9.5 miles and 4,300 feet of gain. We reached camp just as the sun painted the peaks pink and gold.
Dinner: cheesy grits by headlamp — gourmet, by backcountry standards.
The Storm That Found Us
At midnight, lightning cracked across the sky. Within minutes, thunder rolled through the basin and rain hammered our tent.
By morning, we realized we’d unintentionally camped in a shallow depression — waking up half-floating on our pads.
Cold, soaked, and laughing, we packed up to start the descent back toward Necklace Valley.
From Mist to Rainforest
The descent was a complete transformation — from alpine stone and mist to lush, dripping Pacific Northwest rainforest.
We passed the historic Necklace Valley cabin, built in 1950 in memory of WWII veteran Jack Streeter — a quiet, powerful reminder of those who came before us.
Aavron’s Garmin watch was barely alive at 2%, so we jogged the last stretch just to capture the full GPS track.
Back to the Trailhead
We arrived back at the truck tired, dirty, and thrilled. Despite a few missteps — a stormy campsite and less-than-perfect nutrition planning — the trip was everything we wanted: challenge, beauty, and growth.
After 28 miles, countless climbs, and a few laughs, one truth stood out:
Sometimes the best adventures are the ones that don’t go perfectly.
Lessons from the Loop
✅ Flexibility is everything. Weather, smoke, and fatigue changed our route — and that’s okay.
✅ Gear matters. Small comfort upgrades can completely change your trip.
✅ Always reassess. Sometimes stopping early is the smartest move.
💬 Have you backpacked Necklace Valley or the Alpine Lakes Wilderness?
Share your experience or questions in the comments below — I’d love to hear how your trip went.
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